August, 2003

By LENORA DANNELKE
The Morning Call: Living in the Greater Lehigh Valley 2003-2004

BETHLEHEM TWP., PA -- Busy schedules can prelude quick jaunts to exotic locales unless there's a Lear jet at your disposal. Several distinctive Lehigh Valley restaurants, however, emulate the excitement of distance destinations with near-at-hand convenience. Whether quiet intimacy or boisterous bustle is your change-of-pace choice for lunch or dinner, a simple meal becomes a mini-vacation at these diverse and distinctive establishments.

Is it New Orleans… or Easton?

The Raubsville Inn
The sumptuous ambience of this 18th-century inn feels like New Orleans on the Delaware, or perhaps Provence on the Mississippi. Either way, guests of The Raubsville Inn are transported - at least in spirit - to a locale of that seems like anywhere but Easton.

A blending of French, Italian and Spanish influences, reminiscent of The Big Easy, shines through not only the décor, but the Creole-inspired menu, as well. The bucolic setting, atop a foliage-draped bank on the Delaware River, invites to you to slow down and relax. The superb fare and luscious libations entice you to linger.

There's a table to match every mood at this riverfront respite. The two-story porch spanning the structure's stone façade affords aquatic vitas for al fresco diners. Inside, patrons may choose between cozy dinning rooms or a rustic tavern located on the first floor.

Venture up the stairs to discover the striking and sophisticated Odd Fellow's Martini Bar. The second floor also boasts a Cabaret room, where jazz and blues performers take the stage on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Much of the art, antiques and architectural embellishments that grace the interior are from the personal collection of John Franklin and his wife, Linda who own and operate the inn with partners Ray and Diane Sizer. It was barely over a year ago that the Franklins first encountered the place. Stopping in for a casual drink last Mother's Day had a life-altering impact on the couple. "I was impressed with the architecture and historic integrity. The character reminded me of New Orleans, where I've spent a lot of time," Franklin recalls. "We noticed a 'for sale' sign - and came back the next day to make an offer."

Settlement occurred on October 9, and massive renovations began immediately. "There were two crews working around the clock, "Franklin state. "The grand opening was just 34 days later." Franklin's professional background and connections helped to facilitate the frantic pace of construction.

The bar was completely gutted, and brick-floored hallways with curved plaster ceilings added. Decorative Mercer tiles were embedded in walls. "I wanted the tavern to look like Henry Mercer might have had a hand in the design," Franklin says. The Venetian technique of adding pigment directly to the plaster adds dramatic, broken color to surfaces. "The Cabaret ceiling resembles a stormy sky," he continues.

Lighting is an important design element throughout the inn. "That sets the mood," Franklin explains. Period chandelier from Bookbinder', a former Philadelphia landmark, are juxtaposed with flamboyant and ultra-modern halogen styles.

Chef Joe Kienzle, a long-time acquaintance of Franklin, brings a distinctive culinary style to The Raubsville Inn. "Joe's background was in French cuisine, acquired from his experience at various upscale Buck restaurants. He was extremely motivated to take over and develop a Creole-inspired menu," Franklin reports. "The seasoning level is tempered to suit area tastes." A signature dish is 'Joe Mama's Louisiana Stew,' a spicy mélange brimming with crawfish, filet tips, shrimp, sausage, and chicken.

Deserts include a traditional Southern bread pudding. "We made it more interesting, though, by serving it flambéed with a bourbon butter sauce," Franklin comments.

Even Bloody Marys have a Southern accent here: They're prepared with the unexpected addition of shrimp broth. Mardi Gras reigns year round as well, with Fat Tuesday observed on a weekly basis. Specials, including bargain-priced Hurricanes, are part of the celebration.

Further improvements to the historic inn are on the drawing boards. "Phase two of development will include a second floor kitchen," Franklin says. "And a garden dining area is being designed" - all the more reason to take a drive down the lazy river.

Is it New York City … or Bethlehem?

Blue Grillhouse | Winebar
Those hungering for the glamour of a New York steakhouse can find a sophisticated refuge in Blue, the area's new and extremely tony grill house. An atmosphere of relaxed elegance is achieved without a hint of stuffiness, and unpretentious quality dominates the menu.

While Blue boasts numerous outstanding features, its unique wine "cellar" is one of the most distinguishing attributes. The glass-enclosed, atmosphere-controlled room, which separates lounge and dining area, contains a spectacular selection of 300 wines. Sixty-four varieties are available by the glass.

"The opportunity to try a glass, rather than an entire bottle, opens up the wine world to guests," general manager Barbara Brower explains. "It also accommodates differing tastes when dinner partners don't agree. The odd rules about having red wine with meat and white wine with fish no longer apply. Pinot Noir can be great with tuna. People should drink what they enjoy."
Blue's locale is familiar to many area residents as the site of the Candlelight Inn. Long-time owner George Paxos and Don Petridis chose to christen the completely overhauled eatery with a distinctive new name, while retaining a separate Candlelight Reception and Conference Center on the property.

"George and don wanted to do more than give the place a face-lift," Brower states. "Both travel extensively, and felt there was a lack of metropolitan, fine-dining facilities in the Lehigh Valley. They wanted to create something different, with a big city feeling."

A design team from Noble-Hampton, a company renowned for innovative and upscale work in Atlantic City, was selected. The project was headed by Maggie Hampton who worked with artist José Chora to fashion stunning metal architectural accents for the lavishly revamped restaurant. The lounge's eye-popping fireplace is framed with textured aluminum and steel, and embellished with energetic mosaics.

Fanciful martinis, with names like French Lace and Sicilian Seduction, are popular items at the granite-topped bar. The area is equipped with a state of the art ventilation system for removal of smoke.

Those expecting an interior awash with shades of indigo and azure will be surprised. The soft glow of mahogany appointments - and there appears to be miles of this warm, rich wood - instead dominates Blue's décor.

"How we got the name is the most commonly asked question," Brower attests. "Blue is meant to represent a feeling - the mood evoked is cool and hip. Combining traditional wood with contemporary metal design keeps the atmosphere from becoming too formal. Fine dining is about comfort, not formality."

The large restaurant is laid in visually divided sections, provided a feeling of intimacy at every table. Private rooms with separate sound systems are available, though, for meetings and parties. A pergola-shaded patio provides room for 10 outdoor tables on the dining side, while French doors in the bar open to a romantic terrace.

The polished atmosphere, however, merely sets the stage for splendors arriving from the kitchen. "The emphasis is on prime steaks and chops, supplied by Stockyards of Chicago. On occasion, there's bone-in filet - an entrée that surprise most people. But meat on the bone is unbelievably tender. We put the focus on quality instead of garnishes and sauce - although bernaise, bordelaise and peppercorn sauces are available," Brower explains.

"Seafood is flown in fresh every day. Specials include unusual varieties like Opakapaka from Hawaii and an incredibly moist Tasmanian salmon. The menu is a la carte," says Brower, "and the side dishes are large enough to serve two or three. It makes it fun to share. And although it's not on the menu, we can do a terrific grilled vegetable plate for vegetarians."

Deserts range from a decadent Chocolate Godiva to light sorbet trio featuring such vibrant flavors as tangerine, blackberry cabernet and caramel pecan swirl. Of course, Blue could hardly be taken as a serious steakhouse without offering a dense and luscious New York cheesecake. "Most customers share a desert on their first visit," Brower reports. "The next time, though they want one that's their own."

Is it Santa Monica … or Allentown?

Pistachio Bar & Grille
When the doldrums of daily life have drained your batteries, the lively atmosphere Pistachio Bar & Grille can give your spirits an instant jumpstart. Ever since its 1996 debut, this lively brasserie had remained the Lehigh Valley's most electric and eclectic spot for eating, drinking and schmoozing.

The bold design of the restaurant suggests - make that screams - California funky, with a dash of Euro-chic thrown in for extra trendiness. Owner Dr. Sidney Stecher describes Pistachio as a melding of California, Mediterranean and Italian influences. "There's a youthful dynamic here. It's casual funk," he describes. "You can feel conformable coming here after work - you don't need to go home and get dressed up."

Stecher has an edginess about him that finds perfect foil in this unique and energetic bistro. Stecher's wife, Lynn assists in the business. "I run the restaurant, and he runs me," he gibes.

A psychologist by profession, Stecher is also a real estate developer and experienced restaurateur who has owned and operated eateries in Miami and New York City. "Since this is where I live, I wanted bring something new to the area, "Stecher continues. "There was nothing else like this around here - and there still isn't."

Stecher had concepts in mind when he began to work with a designer. "Elements emerged and were implemented in a deliberate way," he describes. An exposed industrial-style ceiling and a concrete floor, conductors of ricocheting clatter, counted among the carefully chosen components. "It creates a sound level that people find appealing - it's healthy, happy noise," Stecher explains.

Hanging lamps dangle like jaunty little glowing sculptures. Walls drenched in intense color are accentuated with stylized murals and bright mosaics. Angled glass doors that form the restaurants' front wall are folded back in balmy weather, integrating indoor and outdoor dinning. Gleaming metal tables and chairs are the latest addition to the popular sidewalk café area.

An expansive runway of a bar stretches nearly the length of the building, and is famous for its election of designer martinis. Stecher describes the bar an environment that's "woman friendly," where females feel comfortable socializing.

The innovative menu encompasses an incredible array of selections, featuring everything from tapas and pasta to salads and sandwiches. Each item has a distinctive, creative flair. Nothing is ordinary: Even the house-made, hand-cut potato chips are served with a side of premise-prepared Gorgonzola dressing.

"There's a breadth of menu to satisfy every taste," Stecher describes in a massive understatement. The variety can mandate a lot of return visits - there are more appealing tastes than can be sampled in just one visit. Pizza is truly a Pistachio forte. Toppings range from traditional (fresh basil and mozzarella) to exotic (fresh clams, garlic, olive oil and pesto). All benefit from being baked in a specially constructed wood-fired oven, which is also used to make fresh pitas. Chicken and seafood are also roasted in the oven, infusing them with a delicate smoky flavor.

"Only the best ingredients available are used," Stecher reports. "The tomatoes in our sauces come from Italy, where they're grown in on Mt. Etna. The ashes in the soil make them extra sweet."

Stecher is planning another restaurant to be located Freemansburg Avenue, near Route 33. The as-of-yet-unnamed venue will sport a "California-Mediterranean-French" décor with a "sophisticated, casual chic ambience."

Attentive service is one Pistachio's hallmarks. "The staff pay close attention to preferences. We have customers who stop by several times a week. The servers know exactly what drink to bring when they come in," Stecher states.

"The prices are reasonable - in fact, they haven't changed for years. That makes it perfect for casual dining. This isn't a fancy place," he says. "It's contemporary and fun. I think of myself as the king of the 1 ½- to 2-star restaurants."